The original branch of this small chain had massive queues outside when it first opened, but this seems to have died off with the expansion of the chain. I went to the Goodge St/Newman St branch on a Friday night and had absolutely no trouble getting a table for two. That's not to say it was dead, but it was not as busy as I had expected.
The décor is very modern oriental in the busaba eathai mold, all dark wood and clean lines. Still, it feels quite stylish and has a decent atmosphere for what is essentially a chain of dim-sum canteens, and the bang for buck is quite high in that regard. However, whatever pretensions it has to be a style bar as well as restaurant are just that, pretensions. There is a small list of fairly interesting sounding cocktails, but the one I tried was over fruity and had very little alcohol.
Moving on to the food, the ordering system is by means of a list of all the dim sum they offer, with a box to tick next to each item. Not at all unusual, but with the benefit of being in English rather than mandarin. Having filled in the form our waiter politely indicated that we had over-ordered in our keenness to try out the place. I would have ploughed on, but was persuaded to order less, he assuring me it would be easy to order more. Rather irritatingly I could have eaten a little more, I wasn't left starving but certainly wouldn't have minded more food. I should note at this point that service was polite and attentive throughout, except thaere was a misunderstanding over whether we wanted to order more, and as time went by I decided it wasn't really necessary.
The first dim sum to arrive were steamed “scallop and shitake in translucent pastry”. The steamed wrapper was not as cloying as it can be from lesser places, and the content was very good. There was a decent amount of scallop with a nice crunchiness of texture provided by bean sprouts. The shitake mushrooms didn't seem to add very much flavour but offered an interesting contrast of texture.
Next up came steamed char siu buns. I've often found these to be a little cardboardy, and was a bit perturbed to read very recently that several factories mass-producing them in china had been closed as they had actually been using cardboard to make them. Its a reminder that people who automatically think “all Chinese food in china is better than any Chinese food here” are misguided but it also made me wonder if its a common practice here as well.
The examples in Ping Pong weren't too cardboardy, certainly not enough to suggest there were a few breakfast cereal packs in their ingredients, but they did have that drying feel on the edge of the tongue that often make steamed buns a bit of a chore. I persevere as have had great ones from time to time, but these were not highlights. Still, the actual filling was decent, gloopy tasty barbecued pork which made up a lot for the wrapper.
At the same time some “sticky rice with chicken pork and king prawns” arrived. These were huge parcels of sticky rice, that went some way to justifying the waiters advice on how much to order. These certainly were filling, and not at all unpleasant but would have been a little bland if it were not for an ok dipping sauce to liven things up.
Our final dim sum were “jasmine smoked chicken and asparagus fried in pastry”. The jasmine smoke imparted a gentle flavour, and this went well with the asparagus. The pastry was fried to the point of being a little over crisp, but at least these avoided greasiness. Another good tasty dish.
This is certainly not the best dim sum in town, but now the queues are gone it was a relaxing and quite a stylish experience, certainly more so than some of the more traditional purveyors. The price is extremely reasonable, and I would happily return again.