I'm not by nature a list writer, but to my embarrassment I have a to-do list of London Restaurants. I'm sure we all have some sort of mental list but I was struggling to remember mine, and tragically committed it to my laptop. The problem with the written list is that it becomes too fixed an entity, and I'm reluctant to eat "off-list".
The reason I tell you, (my probably imaginary reader) about this is that I have a friend who I often have ad-hoc dinner with. Except, more often than not what we actually have is a two hour unfocussed debate about where to eat and the list adds a whole new layer of complexity. The problem is price, the reason being that rather inevitably, ad hoc dinners occur in the centre of town and I've rather ran out of affordable options that I'm keen to try.
Salt Yard is on the mid priced part of my list and so thats where we ended up on a Friday night at about 9.30 having been through the usual debate. We didn't have long to wait for a table, despite it being packed. We ordered a bottle of the house red, a perfectly decent and well priced Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. I also ordered a glass of Manzanilla Pasada from Hidalgo. I have drunk this several times before, and again found that whilst its an undeniably good sherry, it doesn't really justify the price increase over its sister, La Gitana, a sherry I go through phases of drinking gallons of.
The menu at Salt Yard is what might be called modern tapas, its got some Italian as well as Spanish influences and the menu has got a lot of interesting sounding combinations. We started with “Acorn Fed Extremaduro Iberico Ham”, and since I love ham I was really looking forward to it. Sadly it wasn't that great, ok, not the depth of flavour I'd expected. I'm not going to write any posts from distant memory but I do recall that the Iberico ham they have just round the corner at Fino was much better.
We shared “Roasted Spring Chicken with Pea Shoots, Peas, Broad Beans and Lavender Honey” (its great having online menus, from memory that would have been spring chicken with assorted peas). This was a tasty dish, and the combination with the peas was good, but, its here we first noticed that the restaurant had not been named in vain. Obviously it was to be expected that the ham was salty, but the chicken skin was staggeringly over salted. In case you think I'm some sort of prissy not-a-Dr Gillian Keith type, I'm not, but there really was too much salt.
The theme continued with over salted courgette fries, which came with a not very garlicky aioli. Much better were “Pan fried baby artichoke with vinaigrette and mint”, simple and delicious and a reminder that I should eat more artichoke. The Padron peppers were also tasty, but hard to get wrong and patatas bravas provided some necessary stodge, but were no better than those you would get in most tapas bars, indeed they could have been a bit spicier.
I enjoyed “Slow Roasted Rabbit wrapped in Serrano Ham with Chestnut Mushrooms”, the rabbit was subtle, and the flavours well matched but again just a little too much salt was in evidence. My slightly more health conscious companion didn't enjoy it finding it “gamey” and “much too salty”. I didn't think it was gamey but did think the flavours were slightly wintery, especially as the dish came with black pudding, possibly the main source of the excess salt in this dish. That said, wintery felt perfectly appropriate as the wind howled outside and the rain hammered down.
We finished the meal with a “Selection of three manchegos with membrillo”. One of the manchegos was very young and bland but there was one with rosemary and an aged one which seemed very good. It was hard to tell however, as they were served in thin slices which give nowhere near the flavour of cheese served in chunks.
I know this place has had rave reviews allround, and I don't expect anyone to listen to my views over the pros, but for me this place didn't quite live up to expectations and won't be making it on to my (thankfully not committed to paper) “must go again” list.